My Experiences In Education

Tag: video editing

Glazing! Time to Add All the Pretty Colours

This week I glazed my freshly bisqued pottery with a bunch of lovely colours! My friend Sydney came with me again as the photographer.

my six matching bisqued plates ready for glazing

The first step in glazing is to sand any rough edges off your pieces with a bit of sandpaper.

sanding plates with three vases finished

 

After everything is smooth to the touch, wiping all the pieces with a damp sponge removes the dust so the glaze has a smooth, clean surface.

 

Now the fun part! Dipping your pieces in glaze or painting it on.

glaze wall, showing all finished colour combinations with two main types of clay

It is really important to stir buckets of glaze super thoroughly, or the particulate in the glaze will stay in the bottom and the coating of glaze will be thin and discoloured. Glaze should look creamy when it is properly mixed. When I first started pottery, I would be so mad after when I thought I was going to get a beautiful dark blue or green, and it would look thin and watery because I did not mix the glaze enough. The glaze also does not look anything like its colour when it is in liquid form. The next video shows stirring of dark blue, but the liquid glaze looks brown. The high heat of the kiln activates the chemicals in the glaze to show the beautiful colours.

 

I started with my plates. I decided to paint on three fish with glaze on three of the plates for decoration, one red and two blue. When you paint on glaze, you need to do three coats to ensure the glaze shows up in the colour you want. When dipping pieces, more glaze is absorbed so just one dip per colour is necessary.

 

My other three plates I decided to draw and then paint on salamanders.

 

Once I had the time consuming pieces finished, I started dipping my flowerpot, 3 small pots and bowl.

 

Two pieces here have been double dipped and two are waiting for their second coat.

nearest pieces double dipped, far two pieces waiting second coat

One salamander will be blue and one will be red on each plate.

finishing blue glaze on salamander plate

Then I dipped my plates in opal, a clearish whiteish glaze that will make the rest of the plate smooth and give it a white colour while still letting my painted designs show through.

 

You must leave your pieces to dry before touching them or the glaze will come off on your hands, leaving a blank spot on your piece. Thinner pieces need longer to dry as there is not as much to soak up the glaze. I enjoy dipping my pieces in two colours, so you get a bit of both glaze, and the combination in the middle. Once your pieces are finished, you must wipe the bottoms clean. If you left glaze on the bottom of your pieces, they would fuse to the kiln.

 

This batch is now ready for the kiln! I keep a record of which glaze combinations I use in a little book so when they come out of the kiln, I know which combinations I love and which I do not like as much for the next time I am glazing. My small bottle of red glaze I bought for decoration, as Ann does not have any red glaze (apparently very difficult to make). All of these pieces will be food safe, dishwasher safe and oven safe! I tried some new combinations this week, I am excited to see how they turn out!

 

I used the same editing software iMovie as last week, and the same great jazz tune by KieLoKaz from Free Music Archive.

Trimming Everything Down to Size

This week during my studio time, I trimmed all of my pieces that I threw last week! Trimming is when you cut or “trim” your pieces until they are the desired shape and size. Pottery at this stage is called greenware, and the clay is in the “leather hard” phase, so they have enough integrity to withstand shaping by metal tools. My lovely partner Graydon accompanied me this time to record my work at the studio. After you throw your pieces and they have dried some, Ann will put them in large tupperware containers so they all remain at the same level of hardness and prevents them from drying out too much.

Main focus is two large tupperware containers filled with pottery pieces from the week before. They are on a metal grid shelf. Pottery wheel is partially visible to the right of the photo.

two large tupperware containing pieces thrown last week

There are a large variety of tools to use to trim your pieces.

Trimming tools. From left to right: circular level, large wide mouthed tool, smaller tool with curved and square end, small tool with blade and pointed curved end, small tool with different types of curved ends, small tool with sharp pointy end, tool to make a circular hole, blade.

selection of trimming tools

I started out by trimming a pot. I always start by trimming the bottom first. A small level and some anchor clay helps make sure the pot is evenly balanced. I trim the bottom of excess clay and shape it towards the body of the piece with the wider mouthed tool. I then carve my initials and a flower stamp into the bottom of the piece for identification.

Then the pot is flipped over and anchored again. The inside and outer side are trimmed. That looks finished to me!

The next piece I trim is one of my 6 plates. For plates, you roll the anchor clay out into a log, and press it onto the wheel in the shape of the outer rim of your plate. Your plate can then be pressed into the anchor clay. I smoothed out the bottom and edges of the plate with the wide mouthed trimming tool.

I continue to trim the plate by hollowing out the top side of the plate with a variety of tools. Trimming plates can be a little mesmerizing, as coils of clay are trimmed off as you carve a spiral. I like plates to have an pronounced lip, so if you are eating something with sauce it does not spill off your plate!

Here is a comparison of what a trimmed versus untrimmed plate looks like. You can see clean edges and the beautiful spiral design on the trimmed plate, whereas the untrimmed plate looks much more rough.

Myself holding two plates. Left plate has been trimmed, edges look very smooth, spiral pattern on bottom of plate. Right plate looks much more rough, no spiral. Some tupperware are visible in the background.

left trimmed, right untrimmed

Myself holding two plates. On the left, the top of the plate is shown to be trimmed, with clean edges and a spiral pattern on the face of the plate. The left plate looks much more rough, no spiral pattern

left trimmed, right untrimmed

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My flowerpot with the attached dish is the next piece I trim. I am really happy with how this piece turned out!

I punch out 3 small holes so that water can drain from the main pot into the attached dish.

Hand is holding tool to punch through. Other hand with watch on wrist is holding the pot in place. Background is indistinct.

beginning of drainage hole

two hands holding flower pot, new drainage hole is visible, pottery wheel is in the background

finished drainage hole

 

 

 

 

 

Overall, I trimmed 6 plates, a small bowl, a flowerpot with an attached dish and three small pots.

All finished trimming. 6 finished plates, 3 pots, a small bowl and a flower pot with attached dish. Finished pieces are on corkboard, which are on top of a wire shelf.

finished pieces

All of these pieces will go into the kiln this week to be bisqued! It will baked until it is strong enough to be handled, but porous enough that it will soak in glaze. Sometimes I also carve designs into my greenware pieces, but that often takes a long time and I had a lot of pieces I wanted to trim today.

I used the same editing software iMovie as last week, and the same great jazz tune by KieLoKaz from Free Music Archive.

Throwing Some New Stuff!

This week I started some new pieces! It was a beautiful sunny day on Monday, and my good friend Sydney came to the studio with me to record a few videos of myself throwing pottery. I warmed up first by making a few flower pots, then moved on to making 6 plates for Goal 1 of my Inquiry.

I bought a new bag of recycled clay from Ann. I prefer recycled clay, it is the result of all the scrap pieces from the studio that Ann mixes together, so it has a nice light brown colour. It is also half the price of a bag that is one colour. You can buy white clay, a darker brown clay and a bright red/terracotta coloured clay as well.

Three pieces of recycled lump clay. Light brown in colour, three heights in cascading order. Placed ontop of canvas covered table.

Three starting pieces of recycled lump clay.

I started off by portioning my chunks of lump clay by cutting them with wire and weighing them on a scale. You can weigh an old finished piece you have and then add a bit to get a ballpark idea of how much lump clay you need. I know that my flower pots typically weigh around 1.5lbs when in the starting stage because I make them so often, but I needed to weigh a finished plate to see that I would need about 2lbs of lump clay for my new plates.

Portioning lump clay with a piece of wire. Clay is a light brown colour. Surface of the table is a brown canvas. Person is using thumbs to press wire down. Studio is in the background.

Portioning lump clay with wire cutter.

The next stage is wedging. The main reason to wedge your clay is to remove air pockets, which gives it a uniform consistency. It also makes the clay more pliable.

 

Once you have wedged all your chunks of lump clay that you want to throw in your session, you can move to your wheel. These wheels are super quick to set up.

Putting the pottery wheel together. The wheel is made of a light yellow plastic, and they snap together on a metal circular base.

Snapping the two main piece of the wheel together.

Adding small white clips to hold larger yellow pottery wheel together. Wheel is light yellow and secured on a circular metal base.

Securing wheel with clips.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The trickiest part of throwing pottery in my opinion is centering your clay on your wheel. This takes a ton of practice, and I was not consistently centering my clay for about the first six months of throwing. To start, you throw your lump clay as close to the middle as possible, but with some force so that it suctions onto the wheel. Add a bit of water to your piece, wet your hands well and crank up your wheel speed pretty high. Next, you anchor your elbows on your thighs, lean over your wheel, and bring the clay up into a column trying to keep as steady as possible. Push your thumbs slowly down until it is at the desired height. At this point you are mostly centered. To finish, push down from the top with one hand, and push towards the center from the side with your other hand with equal pressure. Knowing when it is properly centered is a feeling and just takes practice. If your piece is not centered, it is much more difficult to throw, as your clay is unevenly distributed. This makes it hard to make a symmetrical piece and the chance of it shearing off increases, as half your piece will be thinner. I’ve linked a great video by Earth Nation Ceramics that talks about how to center clay like a pro. This next timelapse video is an overhead view of myself centering a lump.

 

Now we are at the fun part, pulling! After my clay is centered I slow my wheel down quite a bit, as the faster I go at this stage the more likely I make mistakes. The better you get the faster you can go when pulling your clay up and out to the desired shape. When making something like a mug, flower pot, bowl, etc you start by pushing one finger into the center of your centered clay, down until you are about a half inch from the wheel base. Push your finger slowly outwards until you have enough room to work. Now you are slowly pulling your clay into its desired shape. Keep pressure on both sides of the piece as you pull. Make your piece as high as you want first, and then increase the diameter. It is much more difficult to bring up a wide piece than fatten out a tall skinny piece. Earth Nation Ceramics has another great video on how to pull. This flowerpot timelapse below is a bit more complicated because I am throwing it with a dish attached to the pot. A little piece of the clay around the outside is pushed down so I can shape a dish later and have it attached to the main pot.

 

Be careful not to make it too thin, or something like this will happen!

 

Mistakes happen in pottery, and its all about having fun and practicing. I turned that pot into a small bowl instead, and I save the piece that sheared off. Once it has dried out a bit, I can rewedge it with some other leftover pieces and start a brand new piece! After you have finished pulling your piece and you are happy with it’s shape, it is time to remove it from the wheel and place it on your cork board to dry out a bit. First you remove any water that is in the bottom of the piece. If you leave water inside your piece, over the next day the bottom of your piece would disintegrate back into watery clay, leaving you with a gaping hole or the collapse of your whole piece. Add a lot of water along the wheel to the outside of your piece, and then take your wire cutter and carefully run it along the surface of the wheel underneath your finished piece. You have to do this a few times, until you get water between the pottery and the wheel, to slide it off the wheel. Carefully pick your piece up holding it from the bottom and place it on your cork board. Done!

 

When throwing a plate, the method is a little different and much quicker. You still need start by centering your clay on your wheel. Then using the edge of your hand by your pinky finger, you slowly and firmly push down on a radius tangent until your plate is close to the desired size and thickness. A small tool called a rib is then pressed firmly to the plate back and forth at least 5 times from center to edge to smooth your plate and remove any air bubbles. After you are happy with the thickness and size of your plate, you can add a raised rim by pushing your thumb along the edge of your plate to the desired height.

 

I made three normal flower pots, one pot with an attached dish, one small bowl and six dinner plates in my two hour session on Monday. Next week, the pieces will have dried to the “leather hard” stage. I will be able to finish the pieces with a variety of tools to be ready for their first trip to the kiln.

Image of Allison at Yunomi Studio. Pottery recently thrown is in the foreground, including a plate, 3 pots and some wedged clay lumps. A large window showing a sunny day is in the upper third of the photo. Allison is wearing a camping themed apron, red long sleeve shirt and blue jean overalls. She has brown curly hair and is wearing glasses and a blue face mask.

Midway through the afternoon, with a few finished thrown pieces.

Editing Video and Audio:

This week while preparing this post I learned a lot about editing video and audio, and I found some great resources to help. I used iMovie as I use a MacPro laptop. To convert my videos to a timelapse, I found a great article by Pro-Lapse to explain the process. A video from Maria Schlossberg showed me how to take a picture from my video in a freeze frame. VideoZeus explains how to merge video clips together, as I wanted to take a middle chunk out of one video but make my timelapse the same speed on both sides. Finally, I wanted some funky jazz music for the background of my videos! After learning so much about Copyright and music from the movie “A Remix Manifesto“, I chose to find an open source music site. Free Music Archive was inspired by Creative Commons and the open source software movement, and has thousands of songs to pick from a variety of genres. You can “tip” your artist if you want to pay, and every artist has a bio and links to their page to learn more. I chose this song by KieLoKaz.